Mt. Shasta Summit Attempt & Ski Descent

Kevin bootpacking high on Avalanche Gulch in a yellow jacket with ski poles, panoramic views of the Cascade Range and green valleys far below

Route: Avalanche Gulch · Partners: Kevin Tame & Graham Orme

Metric	Value
Start time	1:23 AM
Turnaround	~12:00 PM
Back at car	~2:07 PM
Total time	12 hrs 43 min
Starting elevation	6,934 ft
High point	13,322 ft
Net gain	6,388 ft
Short of summit	~857 ft
Ski descent	~6,390 ft
Ski time	52 minutes

May 17 — Drive Day

Left early, drove to Shasta to pick up the climbing permit by 4 PM. Grabbed dinner in town and tried to sleep before the alpine start. The kind of sleep where you’re aware of every hour passing.

Kevin and Graham selfie in the car on the drive to Shasta

May 18 — Summit Day

Alarm somewhere around midnight. A 1:23 AM start from Bunny Flat at 6,934 feet. The plan: climb Shasta via Avalanche Gulch and ski the whole thing back down.

Graham bootpacking up a steep snow gulch in dim pre-dawn blue light, dark volcanic rock formations looming above, skis on his blue pack

The first few hours were headlamp-lit skinning and then transitioning to bootpacking in the dark.

Pre-dawn selfie of Kevin in red puffy with headlamp and Graham in blue puffy with Petzl headlamp on his helmet, both smiling on the snow

Kevin bundled up in red Mountain Hardwear puffy jacket, helmet, and goggles at camp with tents behind him, sunrise colors on the horizon

By sunrise the scale of the mountain started to reveal itself. Also high winds and strong gust made moving up slow.

Kevin standing on the steep slope in yellow jacket with skis on pack and crampons, golden sunrise light, sweeping valley and mountain views below

Looking up toward the summit of Shasta — snow-covered peak with dramatic orange volcanic rock towers against deep blue sky

The climb kept going through the morning, grinding upward with skis strapped to packs and crampons biting into firm snow. High winds hammered the upper mountain all day, slowing progress and burning through energy faster than expected. Water ran out.

Graham pausing on the climb with skis strapped to his blue pack, looking up the route at other climbers ahead on the snowfield

Kevin selfie in yellow jacket sticking his tongue out, white helmet and shield sunglasses, snowy slopes and mountains behind

At 13,322 feet — roughly 857 feet below the summit — Kevin and Graham made the call to turn around. Out of water, sustained high winds, still a long way to go. The right call, even if it stung.

Kevin and Graham selfie near the high point — Kevin smiling in red puffy, Graham in black with orange goggles, volcanic rock formations on the ridge behind

Then came the payoff.

Transition to ski mode. 52 minutes later they were back at the car, 6,390 vertical feet below. Dehydrated and ready to get back to the car.

Kevin selfie on the mountain with white helmet, shield sunglasses, and Baofeng radio clipped to his chest, mouth wide open with excitement

Gear (Kevin)

Pack: BD Cirque 22 Ski Vest

Climbing & Ski: Smith Summit helmet · BD headlamp · BD Alpine poles · Dynastar 99 skis · Dynafit Radical Pro boots · Petzl Irvis Hybrid crampons · BD ski crampons · BD Glacier Axe · Pomoca Climb Pro S Glide skins · Peips Probe 300 · BD shovel · Anon goggles · avalanche beacon

Clothing: Smartwool shortsleeve · MH Crater Lake sun hoody · MH Alpintur vest · BD Alpine Start windbreaker · MH Phantom down jacket · MH Nilas parka · MH High Exposure hardshell · BD Dawn Patrol softshell · BD Dawn Patrol pants

Essentials: Hydrapak flasks (x2) · 750ml flex · 1500ml flex · 3L bladder · Baofeng GMRS radio · first aid kit · emergency bivy · sunscreen · wag bags

Food: ReLyte packets (x5) · Clif Blocks (x10) · Slim Jims · Nerd Gummy Clusters · Pop Tarts (x2) · Triscuits · Snickers (x2) · celebratory root beer

The Takeaway

Sometimes the summit is not the point. 12+ hours on one of the biggest volcanoes in the Lower 48, nearly 6,400 feet of climbing. The mountain said not today at 13,322 feet, but the views from up there, with the entire Cascade Range laid out below, tell the story of a day fully sent.

Next time: more water.